Lundy – An Island Adventure

I have always wanted to go to the island of Lundy. We did attempt to go a couple of years ago for my birthday but the conditions were deemed unsuitable for landing and the trip was cancelled. Instead we contented ourselves with a visit to the excellent Broomhill Sculpture Gardens and the wonderful Terre Madre restaurant where they served us Lundy crab. This went some way to making up for the disappointment.

This weekend, however, we finally made it. We sailed from Ilfracomble Quay on the supply and passenger vessel the MS Oldenburg leaving at 10 am. Drinks and food were available on board for this two hour journey as well as some wonderful high concentration ginger biscuits for anyone feeling queasy. The weather at sea on the outbound leg was described as moderate – this meant there was a swell and quite a lot of motion (carrying coffee was a challenge!) and it was also raining. Not surprisingly as we approached Lundy it was shrouded in mist.

After disembarking at the landing jetty we had an initial climb up to the village. For those wishing to save a bit of energy it was possible to get a lift to the village with the ranger in one of three land rovers on the island.  Our initial priority was to find the Marisco Tavern and to get some lunch before heading out on a circular walk of the southern half of the island. The tavern was very friendly and very efficient. They are clearly set up to deal with the sudden influx of people from the boat … which happens three times most weeks from April to October and four times at the height of the summer.

After eating we checked out the shop (selling food, other essentials and of course souvenirs) and then headed off up the eastern side of the island. At that point it was still quite misty but no longer raining. We didn’t get much of a view of the sea or the plants on that side but we did see sika deer and soay sheep and it was still very atmospheric. On our way up we passed the remains of cottages and an old hospital. We continued up until we reached ‘Halfway Wall’. We then crossed to the western side of the island by following the line of the wall which was outlined by a lovely carpet of bluebells. Halfway Wall ends at Jenny’s Cove which is the best place on the island to see the famous puffins as well as some interesting rock formations such as the Cheeses and the Pyramid. By the way ‘Lund-ey’ is Norse for puffin island. Luckily by this stage the mist had lifted and we had good visibility. However, despite scouring the cliffs and seeing many different sea birds … we did not spot any puffins. We learned later that you need to go out onto one of the promontories and look back inland at the cliff. The puffin population had been declining on Lundy but since rats were eradicated from the island a few years ago it is now gradually increasing again.

Our return walk took a bit longer because of the nature of the terrain. You do need to be careful right near the cliff edges but a little further in there is plenty of springy turf to walk on. The carpets of pink sea thrift are a feature near the cliff tops at this time of year. There are very few trees on Lundy and none out on the moor . You will see the hardy Lundy ponies … but do be careful as one inquisitive pony did try and give me a nip once it realised we had no food.

We knew we were getting close to the village again when we sighted the Old Lighthouse (now used as holiday accommodation). From there you can cut across the fields back to the shop and tavern for a final cup of tea and / or to purchase any souvenirs. You need to leave 25 to 30 minutes to get back down to the jetty for the boat. They ask you to be there for 4 pm and will leave as soon as everyone is on-board even if that’s earlier than scheduled departure time of 4:30 pm.

Our return voyage was calmer and also quicker as we were moving in the same direction as the tide. Spending two hours on a boat means the opportunity to meet people. On the way over we met and chatted to the resident Lundy painter and decorator who was returning from a break. He told us that there were 26 Lundy residents (3 seasonal) and that vehicles on Lundy amounted to 3 landrovers, 2 tractors and 4 quad bikes. On the return trip we sat with a Dutch couple who were on a six week tour of the UK – and amongst other things were trying to visit as many UK islands as possible. They had been fortunate enough to see puffins …

On return to dry land at Ilfracombe we couldn’t leave without the obligatory fish and chips in one of the harbour restaurants …. which rounded off the day nicely.

The Quay at Ilfracombe is under 30 mins drive from Rock Cottage. You can also travel to Lundy from Bideford (about the same distance away from Rock Cottage and also a two hour voyage). There are fewer Bideford sailings but you get more time on the island – around six or seven hours instead of four. After a Bideford sailing the MS Oldenburg can offer a trip around the island so that you can get your bearings before setting off to explore. This takes about one hour.

You must ring 01271 863636 after 8 pm the day before to check if conditions are suitable for sailing and to confirm departure time. An easterly wind will cause problems on landing and so the captain will usually cancel if that is the case.

It is possible to stay on Lundy for a few days in one of several buildings restored and maintained by the Landmark trust. These range from a stone cottage that sleeps just one person to a Georgian villa that can accommodate twelve people. You can also stay in the lighthouse (see above), a castle, a converted pigsty or a camp site … depending on your required level of comfort and affordability. Since on-line bookings have been introduced the popularity has increased so you need to get in early. 

There are leaflets on Lundy and its wildlife above and below the waves in Rock Cottage and there is also a small book with four different circular walks which you are welcome to borrow during your stay.

Taken in May with beautiful pink sea thrift in foreground

View Back To Quay (MS Oldenburg)

Lundy View (West Side of Island)

 

 

Orienteering For Fun

For the first time this year, the Exmoor Walking Festival, featured an ‘Orienteering For Fun’ walk. We decided to give it a go.

We are pretty keen walkers but  have never had any kind of map-reading instruction. It was high time to put this right. Some of us completed the Exmoor Perambulation half distance last year and were planning to do it again this year but without a number of unplanned detours!

It was a bit of an inauspicious start as two of us were travelling together by car and due to excess chatting we managed to miss our turn onto the A39 in the direction of Porlock and Horner. Not a good start to get lost on the way to an orienteering course! However the walk was well worth the journey and unexpected detour to Combe Martin .. and we were almost not late!!!!

We met our guide John, who turned out to be very patient as well as an enthusiastic orienteer. The first thing he got us to do was to pace out 10m. The second was to hold the map correctly. All in all we learned a number of new techniques which will be really helpful in any walking situation, but particularly for the Perambulation:

• Orienting map and using thumb for direction
• Using markers on map such as earth banks or changes in vegetation
• Assessing best / easiest route by looking at contours etc (or by allowing someone else to do the hard work if it is just too difficult!)
• How to work in pairs with compass if no obvious markers or misty
• How to use the pacing above to measure distance.

I have never been in the position of being on a perfectly good path and then willingly plunging down into, what looks like an impassable wood, or across uneven ground with recently felled trees in order to find the next ‘control’ and then jot down the 4 letters to prove you have been there. You really do see things from a different perspective. And you become determined to find that next control!

The views were great and the woods around the Horner area beautiful at that time of year with a carpet of whortleberries. Halfway through the walk we stopped at a charming tea-house in Horner which did exceptionally good (and welcome) coffee and walnut cake.

I would recommend this walk to anyone wanting to learn the basics of orienteering. I don’t think we put John off from leading the walk again next year. In fact he has since told us that he has decided to give this year’s Perambulation a go.

Great … we will just follow him!!!!

For details of the Exmoor Walking Festival see website. Rock Cottage is a great place to base yourself for the week. You can come back from a full days walking and rest in your own cosy 17C cottage. Why not book for next year! 

Beautiful Sky

An Orienteering Control

Beautiful Sky

Finding A Control

Church Framed By Trees

Beautiful Sky

Appreciating The View

Great To Be On Track!

Deer Gate

Orienting The Map

Going Solo!

Spotting The Coast

Time For Tea!

We Found It!

Change in Vegetation!

It’s This way …

Great View From Jubilee Hut

Where Is that Hut?

Nice Wide Track

The Sounds, Colours & Scents of Spring …

We love the arrival of Spring in North Devon. The colours and smells are so fresh. The primroses and other plants in the hedgerows are gorgeous. The house martins arrive and from May start to nest in the eaves of Rock Cottage. The blackbird sings from the chimney. With the arrival of longer and warmer days there is so much more choice when it comes to walking.

Favourite walks for this time of year include the circular routes from Tarr Steps via Knaphill and from Woody Bay via Hunters Inn (part of the South-West coastal path). Hunters Inn itself is also a great place to start from as there are a number of walks heading off in different directions. What’s more you can end all of them with a cream tea (the scones are massive!). We also love walking from the village of Hawksridge on Exmoor as there are a number of interesting circular routes to choose from depending on ability and time available. Nearby Dulverton also boasts some good walks and a great tea room.

We also look forward to the Spring North Devon & Exmoor Walking Festival which this year runs from 2 to 9 May starting in North Devon with a trip to Lundy and moving gradually across to West Somerset. The festival offers around 4 different walks a day with a range of distances and levels of difficulty and some with particular themes such as wildlife, railways and family histories.

We have an extensive selection of maps and one-page guides for many of our own favourite walks and these are available for our guests to use during their stay at Rock Cottage.

View On Return Leg of Woody Bay Circular Walk

View Back To Woody Bay From South West Coastal Path

 

Tarr Steps (Pre-Storm)

 

Wonderful Winter Walks …

We love the Tarka Trail at this time of year. You can walk from Barnstaple to Braunton or from Barnstaple to Fremington Quay and spot all the birds that make the Taw / Torridge estuary their winter home including golden plover, curlew, red shank and sometimes even spoonbill.

See the attached helpful leaflet by the Northern Devon Coast and Countryside Service’ (NDCCS) entitled ‘A Year On The Trail‘.

This time of year is also perfect for trying out our local 3 mile circular walk from Goodleigh village. This walk takes you through the village and the woods, down into the valley and eventually back up on to the ridge from where you get a lovely view of Goodleigh on one side and the Taw / Torridge estuary on the other. You then return via the single track road that runs from Landkey to Goodleigh. After the final climb up the hill you arrive in the middle of the village and you can end your walk with a visit to the friendly New Inn or head straight back to Rock Cottage to relax in front of a cosy fire ….

We have an extensive selection of maps and one-page guides for many of our favourite walks – Tarka Trail and local Goodleigh walk included – and these are available for our guests to use during their stay at Rock Cottage.

On Yer Bike!

We have always loved to cycle when on holiday. When we were regular visitors to a lovely mill cottage near Padstow in Cornwall with our young daughter, we would hire bikes and a children’s ‘chariot’ as we used to call it and set off on the Camel Trail from Wadebridge either back to Padstow or in the other direction towards Bodmin. In later years my husband & daughter loved to share a tandem.

Now that we live in North Devon we have discovered the wonderful Tarka Trail. My daughter is now 20, but I still managed to persuade her to hire a bike with me this summer for half a day and we set off happily from the Barnstaple Old Bridge, following the signs to Instow.

Starting off on a lovely smooth path, which is charactistic of the shared-use section of the Tarka Trail between Braunton and Meeth, we made good progress. Before we knew it we had cycled 2 or so miles and arrived at Fremington Quay. The old station has been converted into a Cafe and Heritage Centre. 150 years ago Fremington Quay was a busy port with a deep-water quay and a horse-drawn link to Barnstaple and used to import and export all sorts of cargo from around the world for onward transport into Devon and Cornwall. Imports included coal, lime and seed potatoes from Ireland. A key export was ball clay. In the mid 19th Century it was the most important port between Bristol and Lands End.

Although it took a little while for our food to arrive (being freshly cooked) it was well worth it. An hour later, feeling a little full from the unnecessary but delicious chocolate cake, and after a quick look around the Heritage Centre, we set off again covering another 4 miles to the Instow Signal Box, past the former power station at Yelland. By the time we reached Instow we were beginning to get a little saddle sore so, although we did carry on for 3 more miles towards Bideford (East of the Water), we stopped short of the station. We were also slightly concerned that we might not get the bikes back by 5 o’clock.

On the return trip we were cycling against the wind so it did take a little longer. We stopped for a short break and a very welcome ice cream at Fremington Quay before continuing back to Barnstaple arriving at the cycle hire shop at 16:58!

We are looking forward to further Tarka Trail cycle trips and also walks with family and friends. You can actually take your bike on the little ferry that goes across the bay between Instow and pretty Appledore, every 20 mins or so, and we are planning to do this with friends in the Autumn. We have previously walked to Braunton and back and this would make a decent leisurely cycle ride of 12 or more miles.  When we are feeling fit we would also like to cycle the 14 miles there and back to the old Torrington station , now known as the Puffing Billy (serving more refreshments!)

Information on the Tarka Trail is available to guests at Rock Cottage. If you bring your own bikes there is a good place, out of sight, to secure them. Otherwise we would recommend www.tarkabikes.co.uk for cycle hire. 

Fremington Quay cafe is open all year round except for 3 days at Easter, Christmas & New Year. Food is sourced, where possible, from the West Country and prepared to order.

Finger post near Barnstaple

Barnstaple Info

The Stages and Distances

Barnstaple to Fremington Quay

Barnstaple to Fremington

View of Bridge over River Taw

The Mudflats

Eider on the Mudflats

Fremington to Instow

Barnstaple to Fremington

Fremington Quay

Fremington Quay Cafe

Barnstaple to Fremington Quay

Fremington to Instow

Fremington to Instow

Instow

Instow

Instow Ferry Times

Instow Ferry From Appledore

Instow Ferry Arriving

Instow

The Beach At Instow

Revolutions from Rock Cottage

My partner and I have stayed at Rock Cottage before. The first time around we kicked back, relaxed and enjoyed the scenic backdrop of the north Devon countryside. During our first visit I also spotted the tourism guide for the great Tarka Trail. Being an avid cyclist with a need to train (for Dartmoor Classic 2014 no less!) I devised, on our second visit, a simple route that would take me from the doorstep of Rock Cottage to Great Torrington – and back via the Tarka Trail.

There are all manner of guides on-line, but the main one, which is a recommended read can be found here: http://www.devon.gov.uk/tarkatrail. The trail is suited for walkers and cyclists and I met both on my ride. You can pick any part of the trail to do, there are numerous access points and the trail runs right from Braunton to Meeth.

I chose to pick up the trail in Barnstaple (the north and south routes separate through Barnstaple – check the map) so the easiest thing to do is head for the train station signs and then the Tarka Tennis club and continue with the river Taw on your right. Follow the signs to Bideford and keep going! I have to say that we had the first of the sunniest weekends on our stay and the Tarka trail runs right alongside the river Taw and river Torridge so needless to say, the backdrop for my ride was stunning.

Two tips for other riders out there tempted by this beautiful part of North Devon – make sure you have a bell as the Tarka trail welcomes many visitors! And don’t run your tires at 100 psi. The trail, while very flat, get’s a little bumpy in places (says more about my unforgiving saddle than anything!).

Another amazing weekend at Rock Cottage and I very much look forward to our return when I will be able to complete the north bound section of the Tarka trail to Ilfracombe. I’ve heard this is an equally stunning stretch of North Devon.

Written By: Paul Smith, Rock Cottage Guest & Cycling Enthusiast, March 2014

If you are keen on cycling and/or walking and love the idea of staying in a 17th Century thatched holiday cottage in beautiful North Devon then come for a visit to Rock Cottage (see our website above). Like Paul, you are welcome to borrow maps of the Tarka Trail to plan your route. We also have a perfect place behind the cottage, with wrought iron railings, to secure your bikes. Alternatively you can hire bikes in Barnstaple.

Autumn Approaches, Exmoor Beckons

What a fantastic summer we have had and the good weather continues as we gently slip into September and the start of Autumn. So what better time of year to explore and experience the rugged beauty of Exmoor and in particular the stunning views from one of our favourite places and the highest point on Exmoor, Dunkery Beacon (512m).

We have walked in this area of Exmoor on many occasions, usually taking a much-loved 4.5 mile (7.3km) circular walk with obligatory stop for picnic lunch next to some 4000 year old Bronze Age cairns. There are stunning views across to Wales on a clear day and the colours everywhere are gorgeous in the Autumn light. Even if you are there on a day with darker, moodier skies it is still a wonderful landscape.

To do the circular walk start at the car-park at Dunkery Gate below Dunkery Beacon and set off on a wide stoney bridleway (Exford Cloutsham). After just under 1.7 km you branch off to the right across the moor, just beyond the point that a track joins from the right hand side, down from the Beacon. Depending on the time of year and amount of recent rain the path you take is more or less visible through the heather. Sometimes we walk straight past it and have to double back but it is worth the inevitable ‘friendly debate’ with your fellow walkers in order to find it as it is the track that takes you up to the Bronze Age cairns at Rowbarrow. This is also where you will get a first glimpse of the view across the Bristol Channel to Wales. Once you have made the mandatory (OK not really) stop at the ancient cairns you continue on this track until you eventually reach a lane. Go right and continue along the road for just over 1 km until you get to a finger post on the right (Dicky’s Path Webber’s Post) that will direct you down into a dip and then up an incline the other side. This is Bagley Coombe. As you go up hill you will see a stony track leading up on the right to the Beacon. Once again you be able to see the views. We normally take a rest here on an obliging tree trunk.

Having climbed for a while we tend to feel quite virtuous at this point and well deserving of our second rest, and yes … a bit more of that picnic! Imagine our shock one time when we looked up hearing the noise of something approaching from lower down the hill, thinking it was ponies or deer, but no it was a group of mountain bike enthusiasts cycling pretty fast up the rocky incline and showing no sign of fatigue at all! So much for feeling virtuous!

You continue up the track which merges with a bridleway, eventually meeting another wide track that comes in from the right. At this crossroads, you turn left, continuing up towards the summit of Dunkery Beacon, marked by a more modern stone cairn built in the 1930’s. The 360 degree views are brilliant and there is a useful viewing table which points out the places of interest – including South Wales, the Quantock Hills, Exmoor and even Dartmoor. If there’s any picnic left … this is the time and place to polish it off!

Each time we climb to the top of the Beacon at the end of this walk, or by taking the direct route straight up from the car park at Dunkery Gate … it feels different. Sometimes we share the Beacon with a number of people …. once a whole cub troop … other times it is just us and the ponies. Sometimes we see for miles, other times the panorama is less expansive but always worth the climb.

The final part of the walk is very easy. After 2.5 to 3 hours – depending on stops and size of picnic – you head off down the broad track to your car waiting at Dunkery Gate.

If you are keen on walking and love the idea of walking on Exmoor or by the beautiful North Devon coast then come and stay at Rock Cottage (see our website above) where you are welcome to borrow a laminated map and more detailed directions for this and other favourite walks. In the meantime here are some photos …..

4000 Year Old Bronze Age Cairns

View of Heather from Cairns

View from Rowbarrow

Resting Place

Views from Stoney Path to Beacon

Track from Cairns to Lane

Bridlepath to Dunkery Beacon

1930’s Cairn Commemorating Gift to NT

Panoramic Views

‘Don’t take your Mum to Lynmouth… leave her at Lynton!’

Enjoyed another few days at Rock Cottage in North Devon in the last week of June with my Mum. Such a beautiful cottage in a rural setting with fabulous pub serving great food less than a 2 minute walk away.

Barnstaple is a lovely town to wander around and we had a couple of great locally produced steaks from a butchers near the Pannier Market in the town centre (the name of it eludes me but it may have been Grattons). On the Monday we took a trip to Tarr Steps on the edge of Dartmoor, and we did a beautiful sign-posted circular walk.

This year I agreed to do the driving and now my mum now absolutely hates my satnav! Every country road we could’ve possibly driven down, my satnav chose it. Mid-way through our Rock Cottage stay we decided to go to Lynmouth to see the Lynton and Lynmouth cliff railway. As we got close to Lynmouth, when it was too late to turn back, we realised in hindsight that we should have turned left and parked in Lynton as the road down into Lynmouth was a ‘Mother-squealing’ 25% decline. With her right foot constantly on her ‘imaginary brake’ I threatened to tranquillise my Mum and put her in the boot, multiple times.

However, once there Lynmouth is a charming place. We took the cable car up to Lynton where we discovered that the vicar of St Mary’s Church had set up a picnic area behind the church itself where there were spectacular views across the Bristol Channel and we could see the South Wales coastline. Lynton is a charming small town, with a few lovely tea shops and plenty of windowing shopping opportunities. We then took the cable car back down to Lynmouth and sat by the harbour with an ice-cream, while Mum psyched herself up for the car climb back up in my little 1 litre polo. Much to her relief there was a sign saying ‘No caravans, alternative route’, so we joined the caravan convoy up the more manageable, but still steep road back up.

I can definitely say this was character building for both myself and my Mum. Needless to say I won’t be offering to drive again next year!

Contributed By: Rosie Gridley, Rock Cottage Guest June 2013

Dreaming of North Devon, Waterfalls and Ice Cream!

Here I am busy, working hard, and not sleeping much, in this amazing heat. But I shouldn’t be here at all!  I should be back down in North Devon enjoying one of the many fantastic coastal walks.

The one that keeps coming to mind (and I think that’s because it includes two waterfalls!) is a favourite circular walk from Stoke village via Speke’s Mill Mouth and Hartland Quay. It was a beautiful day when we first did this walk and we sat on the clifftop eating our lunch and trying to spot dolphins. Apparently they can be seen occasionally from Coombe Martin so we were being a bit optimistic!

The walk is 7.3 km (4.25 miles) and takes around 2.5 hours or, of course, longer if you keep stopping for the views.

There are a few steep bits but it’s definitely worth the effort for the view of Speke’s Mill Mouth, one of the largest waterfalls on this coast and for the rock formations. Hartland Quay is a good stopping place for ice cream (oh yes!) ..… and loos, but don’t leave your walking stick there, as I did, as that means you need to do the ascent out of the quay twice!  To take your mind off the incline you can ponder on the fact that Hartland was once a thriving quay, dating from Elizabethan times and handling cargoes such as lime and malt.

After the ascent from Hartland Quay you rejoin the coastal path to Dyers Point and then head back inland tracking the Abbey River. Keeping the church tower in sight you head back to Stoke. Stoke’s Church, St Nectan is highly recommended with its 130ft tower and beautiful interior. It is our intention to visit but our priority at this point has so far been ‘tea’ … very refreshing whatever the temperature! Luckily there are tearooms at Stoke Barton Farm, conveniently located at the end of the walk.

Now back to reality ….. and perhaps a cold shower followed by ice cream!

If you are keen on walking in Devon and love the beautiful North coast then come and stay at Rock Cottage (see our website above) where you are welcome to borrow a laminated map and more detailed directions for this and other favourite walks. In the meantime here are some photos …..

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